Sabyasachi Mukherjee is an internationally renowned Indian designer.

His creations have been worn by many celebrities, including Oprah Winfrey and Sophie Turner. He is best known for bridal wear, having dressed the likes of Priyanka Chopra-Jonas and Deepika Padukone on their wedding ceremonies.

He recently partnered with H&M to produce a collection more affordable for high street buyers in order to reach a broader market.

‘Wanderlust’ was met with a lot of enthusiasm, but it was also met with a lot of criticism.

An open letter was submitted to the designer by groups representing Indian crafts workers who were dissatisfied with the way the outfits were made by a fast fashion brand.

They expressed their disappointment with the squandered opportunity presented by ‘Wanderlust’ for artisan livelihoods, noting that the range is not created by Indian artisans and provides no tangible value to them. They described it as a “once-in-a-lifetime opportunity” to put India’s design and workmanship on the world map, adding that even if half of the collection had been manufactured by craftsmen, it would have had such an impact during a time of economic crisis like this pandemic.

According to the letter, the cooperation is excessively focused on Sabyasachi as a name and a brand, and it is a mix of current designs.

Sabyasachi responded to the letter on Instagram, noting that his personal purpose as an Indian designer has been to transform Indian craft into luxury, and that this is a mission he would continue to pursue within the premium arena.

He went on to say that his H&M collaboration collection was a completely different mission, with the sole purpose of putting Indian designs on the global map.